Southeast Gardener's April Checklist

The month of April is wrapped in spring. With March madness behind us and the merriment of May beforehand, many feel the need to stop and appreciate our houses at April (or at least I do). The month of April is filled with tulips, daffodils, Virginia bluebells, Yoshino cherry and crabapple blossoms, flowering dogwood, candy tuff, azaleas, creeping phlox and more.

Everybody is a gardener at springtime.

Gardening with Confidence®

Prune azaleas. The time to prune your azaleas is just as soon as they bloom. If you wait too long, you will cut off next season’s bloom. Same with your forsythia. Prune soon after flowering to shape or manage the size.


Enjoy southern magnolias. It is normal to see a great deal of southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora) leaves shedding beginning this month. Some find this messy, but if you leave the magnolia to develop naturally, rather than cut the limbs, the leaves will fall within the drip line and hide beneath the shrub’s skirt.

In the previous days, encouraging southern magnolias to have a ground-touching skirt was helped along by weighing the branches down with rope and bricks. A skirt on the tree hides the leaves and makes the tree very stately from the bottom up. Once the limbs have been cut, there is.

Gardening with Confidence®

Plant annual herbs like basil following the season’s final frost. Biannuals like parsley and perennial herbs like rosemary, chives, thyme and mint can all be planted now.

Gardening with Confidence®

Plant tomatoes. If you’re planning to preserve tomatoes, plant determinate bush kinds. Determinate tomatoes will fruit and ripen all at once (in just a week or so).

If you would like to enjoy vine-ripened tomatoes all summer through frost, plant indeterminate tomatoes.

Sarah Greenman

Water sensibly. Beingwater wise doesn’t mean not watering. It means watering. Plants need water on a regular basis the initial weeks after planting or transplanting, and during growth — even those which are drought tolerant.

I have my garden beds split in to watering zones: oasis, transitional and xeric.
The oasis zone is to get thirstier plants; it’s located close to a water source. The transitional zone is for plants that require occasional watering, particularly during times of drought, and is located a hose-draggable distance in the water source. The zone that is xeric is for plants that require no water. Once they’re established, these plants are not watered.

Jocelyn H. Chilvers

Employ sustainable techniques. A sharpened hoe is your very best buddy in a sustainable garden. Set your chemicals away and hoe your possessions. It’s good exercise and better for the environment.

Read more ways to naturally tackle weeds

Transplant bulbs. If you forced paper white narcissus indoors over the holidays using a soil-based moderate, you can plant it outside today for years of pleasure. If you pushed it in the lack of soil, it’s spent compost it.

That I know it drives you mad to see the fading leaves of daffodils; take a deep breath and then put away those buckets. Yes, it really is required to maintain the yellowing foliage as long as possible; the leaves are required to collect food for next season’s nourishment.


Plant annuals following the frost. Wait till after the last frost prior to planting tender annuals such as impatiens and petunias. The National Climatic Data Center can help you determine your region’s last frost date.

Don’t be in a hurry to plant; garden centers frequently stock summer annuals and tender perennials well before planting time. Know when it’s safe to plant tender annuals.

Doering Landscape Company

Watch for mildew. Issues with your impatiens last calendar year? Impatiens downy mildew (Plasmopara obducens) has become a problem for East Coast gardeners. There were reports of beds perishing in months.

Here is what to search for:
The foliage turns pale green or yellow, and a whitish growth appears on the bottom of the leaves.The edges of the leaves will also curl downward.Sadly, there is not much which can be done. The best defense is to stay conscious; if you suspect that your impatiens are infected, remove them together with all debris in the area. Don’t plant impatiens in that bed for many decades.

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