Tree Grafting Styles and Techniques

Tree nurseries use grafting fashions and methods to make new types on existing rootstocks. Grafting unites one tree number onto another so that two separate varieties can grow as one. Graft multiple varieties on a frequent rootstock for producing new fruit trees, yielding more than 1 type of fruit. Opt for the grafting style which is most suitable for you to create a stronger and more resilient tree.


Budding is a grafting technique utilized for leading working or producing new fruit trees, allowing different varieties of a common species to grow on a single tree. Perform budding when the bark is slipping using dormant scions of the current season’s growth from a one-year-old budding fruit tree. Following the season is finished, remove a grass from the scion with a budding knife. Slice an opening to the rootstock without puncturing the fresh wood beneath and slip the grass to the folds of the opening, ensuring that the brand new cut surfaces of the rootstock and grass make contact. The budding process usually takes eight weeks for the needle to callous over, indicating that the graphing was successful.

Bark Grafting

Bark grafting is just another technique for leading working bigger stocks around 12 inches in diameter. This type of grafting alters the cultivars of an established tree by adding different types of the same species into the rootstock. Instead of using just the grass for grafting, the entire scion is inserted into the rootstock between the bark and fresh wood. Grafting over 1 scion is feasible for a higher success rate. Nail the scions into the rootstock and use grafting wax to cover all exposed surfaces around the rootstock. Once growth begins for the scions that endure the union, tie them for support to avoid splitting.

Bridge and Inlay Grafting

Bridge and inarch grafting are methods to repair damaged regions around the base of a tree. Damage might consist of harsh weather, rodents or man-made injuries. These grafting techniques work better just before blooming during the spring months when the bark is slipping. Before spring arrives, prepare the tree for grafting by painting the wounded regions with a permeable chemical to prevent the edges from drying out. Clear the damaged area of leaf litter and dirt to help the bark slip quicker.

Cleft Grafting

Cleft grafting resembles bark grafting, but is employed for stocks with diameters between 1 and 4 inches. Instead of grafting the scion between the bark and rootstock, split the rootstock down its middle to the scion to be wedged inside, employing a clefting tool, metal wedge and rubber mallet. Seal the union and all synthetic cuts with grafting wax. Cleft grafting heals quicker when using two scions, but just one will remain. Allow one of the scions to remain dominant as you maintain the second pruned. Following the grafting process creates an established union, usually in two to three decades, remove the next scion.

Side Grafting

Forms of unwanted side grafting comprise the stub-side graft, side-veneer graft as well as the side-tongue graft. The stub-side graft is the most frequent form of unwanted grafting for fruit trees because of the magnitude of the divisions. Use stub-side grafting for divisions with a diameter between one-half and a single inch. Use side-veneer grafting and side-tongue grafting for some other kinds of trees, like grafting evergreen plants on seedling stocks. When employing this grafting technique, then graft that the scion onto rootstocks which have been growing in containers the previous season. Leave the rootstock outside in cold weather for at least fourteen days and then bring it inside for grafting.

Splice and Whip-and-Tongue Grafting

Splice grafting is a technique usually reserved for herbaceous species. Choose a rootstock and scion with equivalent diameters less than 1 inch. Cut a 1 1/2-inch diagonal border in the ends of the rootstock and scion. Match up the cut edges together and cover the entire grafting surface with wax. Whip and tongue is much like splice grafting and is employed for deciduous trees. Instead of a straight diagonal cut, slice a tongued groove to the incisions so that they hook together.

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